hello, I would like to rebuild kawasaki KLE500 model 1998. Instead of 2 carburetors KEIHIN CVK34 install EFI.
Hi @jirkahu, welcome! Here are the first things we’ll need to know:
- What kind of ignition does your model use? We need to find a good trigger source.
- What is the maximum electrical capacity of your charging system at idle?
If you can do the legwork on tracking down this information, I’ll be able to help advise what will be necessary for a successful NanoEFI conversion. Technical or service manuals for the engine usually have this kind of information. If you get stuck, let me know and I’ll lend a hand.
Also, feel free to upload pictures of your KLE500. I’d like to check it out. The overall bike, the original carb setup, and anything else on the bike you feel would be relevant. Thanks!
motor je shodný jako KAWASAKI GPZ500, ER5, EN500, KLE500, rozdíly jsou v airboxu a výfuku (GPZ má jiné vačky).
Two KEIHIN CVK 34 membrane carburettors,
Vacuum controlled by two cables, choke on the left side of the handlebar.
Nozzle main - 112
Air inlet nozzle - 100
Needle - N96J
Idle nozzle - 35
Idle Nozzle (Air) - 80
"Wealth mixture screw - unscrewed by 1.5 turn
Choke nozzle - 52
Idle speed - 1300 ± 100 rpm
Air filter placed under the tank
Electronic, transistor ignition, two 12 V ignition coil.
Pulse sensor is located in the alternator rotor surface on the left
crankshaft. The ignition timing is controlled electronically
according to engine mode.
- basic advance: 10 ° at 1300 rpm
- max. advance: 35 ° at 5,000 rpm
in my opinion, the existing ignition would not need to be replaced
The alternator supplies electric current for charging, ignition
a el. appliances while the engine is running. Voltage 14 V, current 17 A, output 238 W at 6000 rpm Rectifier controller - electronic.
Thanks @jirkahu, very clean bike! The 17A charging output at 6,000rpm is very good, but I’m also curious what it’s able to produce at the 1,300rpm idle speed. If it can generate more than 5A - 6A at idle, then you should be good for EFI. Roughly guessing based on your max output of 17A at 6,000, I’d say that you’ll most likely be fine at idle.
To be sure, you can test the charging system’s output at idle if you have an multimeter with an “ammeter” setting. This setting is used to measure the amperage passing through the test leads at two points. They’re usually capable of handling up to 10a. If you’re interested in testing it but unsure how, let me know and I can help.
Good, then we can use the stock ignition for our timing source.
I did a quick search for pictures of a KLE500 flywheel and trigger sensor. Does this look like yours?
What’s interesting about this flywheel are the two magnets. They appear to be 90° apart. That’s good news, as my trigger decoder already supports this pattern. Even if they’re not exactly 90°, that shouldn’t be a problem.
I also found this picture which shows an elongated magnet. I’m curious what this would look like on the oscilloscope. But it shouldn’t change what the ECU “sees”. The ECU only cares about the positive rising edge.
However, I’m concerned about where I’m seeing the index (keyway location). Between the two pictures above, the keyway appears to be on opposite sides relative to the timing magnets. Would you be able to check on this? Perhaps there are actually 3 timing magnets, with the center of the elongated magnet at TDC.
This is about as far as I can look into this online without having access to a KLE500 myself. If you’re willing to check/test these things, I’ll be able to say for sure what you’ll need to do to convert to NanoEFI. Let me know
the second picture seems to be correct. I’d rather open the ignition cover and take pictures, measure the angle between the magnets, and check the position against the shaft groove.
That would be great! Let me know what you find. Thanks!
Do you need the 5-6A at idle just for the FI system (injector ,ecu, fuel pump)?
The 5a estimate is mostly for fuel pressurization using a standard turbine style pump. And to a lesser extent your injector(s). The NanoEFI ECU consumes very little in comparison at around 150mA.
This is still up in the air though. I’m working on a method of reducing the fuel pressure as necessary at idle, as a response to low charging voltage. So weaker charging systems can keep up at low speeds without draining the battery. If it works out, we may end up needing significantly less than 5a.
So a minimum of 6 amps should be good?
Then I should concidder to buy a new stator for my scooter.(Kymco Agility 50)
According to the manual, the stator produces 144W at 5000 RPM, so that is not enough at idle.
Is there a way to check this if the stator makes enough power at idle?